Antica Osteria Magenes: a journey through time and taste between tradition and innovation

Antica Osteria Magenes is a restaurant that will make you experience an unforgettable evening as it offers cuisine that combines the tradition of the family inn with the creativity and passion of young chefs. Located in Barate di Gaggiano, on the outskirts of Milan, the restaurant occupies a farmhouse surrounded by greenery, which has retained the rustic charm of rural architecture. But as soon as you enter, you discover an elegant and modern environment, where wood and design blend in a harmony of light and color. The Osteria has three rooms, one of which is almost a veranda, surrounded by the dehor, where you can admire the surrounding landscape. In warm weather, you can also opt for the indoor garden, an oasis of peace and tranquility.
In the kitchen is Dario Guidi Magenes, a graduate in Financial Market Economics, who inherited his love for the stove from grandmother Nunzia and mother Mariella. After working with Mathias Perdomo at “Pont de ferr” in Milan and doing several internships in Spain with the “Adrià” group, Dario became one of the members of the JRE, the young restaurateurs of Europe, who stand out for their ability to innovate and experiment. In the room, on the other hand, is Diego Guidi Magenes, his brother, a graduate in political economy, a great lover of wines and especially of artisanal champagnes and small producers. Diego has a diploma from the Italian Sommelier Association (AIS-Milan), and is also an oil sommelier (Onaoo- Organizzazione Nazionale Assaggiatori Olio d’Oliva) and coffee sommelier. The two brothers are a close-knit and competent team who know how to welcome customers with courtesy and professionalism.
Dario’s cuisine is one that amazes and excites, skillfully blending tradition and innovation, using quality and seasonal ingredients, and offering dishes rich in flavor and imagination. The menu changes often, depending on market availability and the chef’s creativity. The fireworks begin at precisely 8:30 p.m. with amuse bouche1, small bites that anticipate the surprises on the menu. They range from the pink shrimp of Santa Margherita Ligure all’antartico2, a preparation that enhances the flavor of the shrimp with the cold vapors of vacuum cooking; to the Amsterdam sandwich3, a lobster sandwich with cocktail sauce; from the rabbit alla ligure4, a traditional recipe of Ligurian cuisine precisely, re-presented with great taste and imagination; to the DIY spring rolls, with shiso, kimchi and mayo, fig leaves, of great fragrance and sublimation of aromas.
The main dishes are equally surprising and elaborate. We start with the tendons and clams, XO sauce, a super interesting and very good dish, with an interplay of different bitters and textures; we continue with the risotto with lemon, anchovy garum, parsley and licorice, with Riserva San Massimo rice and maximum expression of acidity, between lemon and colatura; we move on to the plin of eggplant parmigiana, tomato colatura salad, scampi and oregano; concluding with Varvara’s lamb tongue, pineapple, capers and chard salsa verde (special mention for the unexpected goodness of the whole lamb tongue).
To end on a high note, we move on to desserts. As pre-dessert, Fractal: mead, raspberry, lychee, chili caviar and black garlic. And finally, a freshly whipped muscovado ice cream, marvelous in its sporation at the table. The small pastry? Puffed amaranth cremino and fig, salted caramel and chocolate truffle, lemon curd filled puff, pineapple gin tonic and lime, passion fruit marshmallow and coconut.
Last, pan meino: a loaf of corn that was traditionally kneaded in honor of St. George, April 23, the hypothetical day of bloom of the elderberries, and soaked in liquid cream. We mention, though we almost never do, the evening’s wine tasting: champagne Daniel Etienne, brut cuvè speciale, premiere cru; Langhe Arneis 2021, Rosanna Sandri; C. Grand Mougin, Aligotè 2018; Timorasso “Derthona” 2020, Boveri Luigi; Malvasia 2020, Zidarich; “Collezione 50,” San Marzano; I Capitelli, Passito di Garganega, Anselmi.
11:30 p.m. The fires go out. The fireworks and those in the kitchen. A great evening in another, hidden, undiscovered place. The modern, very modern Antica Osteria Magenes.